A Long Overdue Visit to Calaguas

I have been planning to visit this island for years since my mountaineer friends first told me about it. It is this isolated island several hours away from the mainland that is inhabited by few families with no electricity, scarce running water, no commercial lodging and bathrooms, no restaurants (nor carinderia or canteen at the time) and absolutely no network connection...just pure gift of nature. It is a place where even the elderly locals were afraid to go in fear of being engulfed in huge waves. This was at the time when typhoon after typhoon ravaged the Bicol region. To get there, one would have to hire a fishing boat and combat the massive waves. The description alone is enough to send a comfort traveler running fast to the other direction. But tell that to this mountaineer and adventure seeker and her backpack will be packed and ready even before you finish your story.

Many years after I first thought of going, at the peak of summer I find myself on a 9-hour roadtrip to Vinzons which would be the jumpoff point to Calaguas. The news was there are stores and establishments there now which makes it more (although not totally) convenient for guests. We left Manila at night at were in Vinzons port by 8:00am. We had to wait a while for our boat to fetch us. As we were waiting for our ride, I was amazed at the influx of tourists. Most of whom were obviously from Manila in various ages, with some even carrying their pet dogs. There were groups in 4 vans, jeepneys, even buses! Clearly, this was no longer the hidden paradise from the stories of before.

The port has a small fish market with several mini stores around where tourists can buy bottled water, foodstuff, toiletries and other supplies that they will need in the island.

Finally, our boat arrived. Now, getting into the boat is one thing and getting out of the port was another thing. It must have taken us 20 minutes to get out because it involved a careful maneuver of boats coming in and out of the very narrow passing. I remember how eager I was to hear the motor running just so I could finally feel some cool sea air brush though my flushed and sweaty face and body. 

I alternately listened to music and slept during the approximately 3-hour boat ride in surprisingly calm waters, asking myself "are we there yet?" everytime I wake up from my naps. Then, I saw a row of huge boats lined on the white sand beach and I knew we were there.

Calaguas group of Islands in Camarines Norte, Luzon, Philippines is comprised of minor islands/islets such as Maculabo and major islands such as Guintinua Island and Tinaga Island. 

Tinaga Island is where the recently famous Mahabang Buhangin is located.  It is under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Vinzons and Barangay Mangcawayan at approximately 14-15 nautical miles  from Paracale and 19-20 nautical miles from Vinzons. It first gained the attention of mountaineers who were looking for an untouched paradise but has remained unfamiliar to many until the past two years. In a short period of time, it had gained popularity especially to the younger crowd and families from Manila who are looking for an alternative to the more known beach sites.

 

Mahabang buhangin is comprised of about a 2-kilometer stretch of beach. Its crystal clear waters and powdery white sand are undeniably one of the best in the Philippines. It might be an injustice to the beautiful island that has its own unique beauty but speaking in a manner understandable to many, I'd say as of this writing, it is the only beach in the Philippines that I've been to that is comparable to the waters and the sand of Boracay. The backdrops of the island are rolling hills that are perfect for short treks.

  

The first thing I do as the boat arrives in any island wherever I go is look at the water as we approach the beach. The water turned from dark blue/dark green to aquamarine to a very transparent white. I got off the boat wearing my flip flops and a few steps away from the water, I took one flip flop off to feel the sand. The I knew it indeed was like Boracay's sand, only more cream-colored than white and a lot cleaner! 

These days, there are some mini stores (sari-sari stores) in the island, some huts, basic toilet and bath facilities but still no electricity and no mobile and internet network except for some parts way up in the hills.

It was scorching hot when we arrived at 11:00am on a summer day. There was hardly any shade from the few trees and all of the huts were already reserved. We bought halo halo from one of the stores for Php45.00 each. There was no special ingredient in it but it was very refreshing. Our delicious lunch was in one of the stores where we had steamed native veggies with sweet bagoong, grilled fish, sinantol, pininyahang pork and chicken and some fresh fruits.

My struggle with the heat came after lunch as the heat of the sun became much stronger. It is amazing though that many were swimming, playing volleyball and football and taking pictures at the beach at high-noon. I, on the other hand, opted to take sanctuary in this tiny tree and read my book. I dozed off for a few minutes but I was too uncomfortable with the humidity to fall in deep slumber. 

Reading under this small tree

Extremely bright and sunny day, where's my mojito?

A couple swimming at high-noon with an umbrella - only in the Philippines LOL!

4:30 in the afternoon and the sun was still high but we decided to go for a dip. I have not enjoyed swimming in sea water this much in a long time, or maybe ever. The water was so clean with absolutely none of the itchy feel that I get in other beaches.  

At around 5:30pm, we decided to take a shower to beat the long lines of people trying to shower before dinnertime. We paid Php10.00 per pale of fresh water. I thought this was a fair price considering the local's effort to carry the water from the well all the way to the bathrooms. Before sunrise, I was already refreshed, had read more pages in my book and was ready to watch the beautiful sunset.

Dinner was laing, grilled tuna, grilled pork belly and very sweet mango. By this time the breeze was cooler. There was non-stop lightning from afar but our skies were clear. Since I was still tired from the land travel I slept early, not minding the noise from different groups drinking and having fun. At 3:30am, I woke up. It was already quiet and all the lights were off. I decided to get my mat and lay on the beach to watch the stars. Oh man! There were millions of huge stars. I might have stared at them until just before sunrise.  

The next morning at 8:00am, it was time to pack our bags and be ready to leave.

Was the 9-hour drive and 3-hour boat trip worth it? I'd say it depends on who's traveling and what you are looking for in a destination. Certainly, this is one of the most beautiful beaches that I have ever been to.

A resort is fast building an establishment on one side of the beach and I will not be surprised if there will be more in the future. This can be a good sign - work for the locals, more comfort for tourists who are willing to pay - everybody happy right? I just hope that visitors and residents can be disciplined enough so that this pristine island can preserve its cleanliness and beauty. Ofcourse I can only hope.

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.

It is now raining hard outside which reminds me that my travel season is here. Time to leave an out-of-office reply in my email and pack my bags again for another adventure! :)

A proposal to spend the rest of our lives together...my answer will always be YES!

It was June 19, 2010. What I thought was an emergency business trip turned into one of the biggest and most memorable surprises of my life. 

A couple of days back, R asked me to come with him to a trip to Coron to meet with his main tour guide who was moving from Coron to Puerto Princesa. It would be a quick two-night trip. I adore Coron and I love traveling with him so of course I did not give it a second thought. I was looking forward to a dinner in Bistro Coron. The plan was for R to meet with his suppliers during the day while I work in Village Lodge then meet up in town to have dinner. Just an ordinary work routine for us. 

We landed in Busuanga airport and boarded a van with several other guests. When the van entered a docking area, I was puzzled when R told us that we'd have to go down. A speedboat was waiting for us with a European man seated on one side with a silkscreen printed "Divemaster" shirt. In my mind I thought we were just stopping by some area to meet with one of R's suppliers. A good 20 minutes in the speedboat with the constant chat with the divemaster about his vacation to his home country Germany and about his children who goes to school in Coron town, we were in Sangat Island.

 
It was a lean season and there were very few people there. Barely 15 guests. We were served orange juice and cheese & cucumber sandwiches. I asked R what we were doing there and he said that we were there to spend the night so we can dive the next day. Apparently, there are great dive spots around the island.

A lady in batik-printed skirt oriented us about the meal times. Typical me, I'd never forget a meal schedule! The schedules was 7:00am breakfast, 12:00nn lunch; 3:00pm snacks and 7:00pm dinner. Since the cottages are quite far apart, the start of each mealtime will be signaled by a bell.

We settled down in our cottage. The accommodations were very basic and rustic. Since this is an isolated island, there is no electricity. I thought to myself..."So much for my work plans, at least for the day". There is solar-powered light bulb inside each cottage and running fresh water which is the most important thing for me. The is a mosquito net for the bed which proved to be very useful. 

Now, it was mosquito season in the the island. Boy they were HUGE! Their bite was almost too painful. I have a mosquito bite allergy so just imagine my agony. In a few hours, the mosquito bites on my legs were red and swollen.
 

I was not about to let the mosquito ruin my impromptu "no work" day so I immediately changed into my beachwear and headed to the beach in front of our cottage. I took photos while R relaxed in one of the many hammocks. The whole day basically went like this...read, sleep, photo op, chat, read again, sleep again and so on. We slept through the afternoon snack time and it was almost dark, around 5:30pm when I woke up. R was already awake and was reading a magazine. I asked him if he wanted to come with me to the clubhouse to get some snacks. He insisted that I just wait in the cottage while he gets the food for us so I just stayed and read my book. It started to get dark so I got worried and a bit impatient so I got up and walked towards the direction of the restaurant. I had walked barely a few steps when I saw R hurrying to met me. He said he just got caught up chatting with the resort staff. I'd find out only the following day that he was checking if everything was ready for his dinner plans. That was why he insisted on going to the restaurant alone.

It was past 7:00pm when I started to wonder why the dinner bells did not ring. We were just in our room reading our books and magazines the whole time and I would have heard it if it rang. I was pestering Russ about it but for some reason, he appeared apathetic about it until I told him I'd check the dining area because I was already starving. Moving very slowly, he agreed to go together. He brought his backpack with both our laptops inside. The plan was to work in the restaurant while waiting for the buffet to open.

As we were walking towards the well-lit restaurant area, I saw a resort staff on a wooden raft, setting up a dinner table, with lit candles on the raft floor and on the table. The table had a wine bucket with wine cooling on it. The staff was spreading flower petals all over the raft and on the table. As we came nearer and nearer I whispered to Russ..."Ay, may nag aanniversary!"...He did not say anything in return and since it was dark, I did not see his reaction to my comment. He just led me to walk to the restaurant. We sat on a stool and placed his backpack on the table. I was surprised to see people already having their meals and I said..."Hindi mo din narinig yung bell?". The hotel staff then gestured something to Russ and pointed us toward the raft. Confused, I asked why we were being led to the raft and Russ told me that he had it set up since we've been both busy and we have not gone out on a date in quite a while. I believed him, I really did not have a clue.

 
We had a Sinigang na hipon soup in a small cup and a plated meal of Beef caldereta, a chicken dish, a stir fried vegetable dish, fried battered fish fillet and lots of steamed rice. As we were having dinner, I'd give comments that this dish was dry, this dish was delicious, that there is too much rice in our plates, and many more of my usual comments. I noticed that he was barely touching his food. He just said that he was still full from the merienda that he ate in the afternoon. I continued to eat my dinner but started getting really thirsty. The staff forgot to give us water!!! Nabubulunan na ako! I was saying over and over..."Yohoo, kuya!!!!". No one came to bring any water so I just drank the soup. When I was done with my dinner, he extended his had across the table where my hand was and gave a very sweet speech. In my mind I was trying to think why he was acting this way but things were going too fast and before I knew it, he was on knees beside me, opening a red velvet box. Then...he popped the question. I'm not exactly sure if I even understood everything that he said after seeing the red box. I just remember feeling a hot flush in my entire head then seemingly all the blood was drained out of it. I could not reply. In my head I was saying "YES YES ABSOLUTELY YES!" but the shocking surprise was just too overwhelming and for a time, I could not let the words out of my mouth. He even had to to ask..."Hon, anung sagot mo?". 

After he got up on his feet, the staff approached with a heart-shaped cake, the water (Seriously kuya? Ngayon lang talaga?), and opened the champaigne. The whole night was just complete bliss. The island was dark since everything ran only on solar power. As I looked up, millions of stars filled the night sky as we talked. We talked all night about our plans and about many other things about our future...things that I never thought we'd ever talk about. Because really, I never thought we'd get there. If he was ready to get married, he sure did not say anything or show any sign.

I know it may not make sense to a lot of people but honestly, marriage nor having kids were never in my plans. What was and forever will be in my plans and in my dreams is to spend the rest of my life with Russ who is a blessing in my life...I know it has been overused many times but really, we are bestfriends and soulmates. When he popped the question, all apprehensions and doubts about the idea of marriage went away because I was sure...so so sure about US. 

As I reminisce this experience, almost 4 years after, I still cannot believe we're married. Every waking moment is a new adventure for us. 

Cheers to many more years of love and friendship! :)

A Quick Escape to Club Paradise – A whole day of doing nothing does everything to heal a tired soul

Adulthood comes with responsibilities. I have not been too cautious lately in keeping conscious effort to keep a certain level of balance in my life.

Until a few days ago, I did not think that I can still allow myself to escape and do nothing even just for a few hours. Here I am now, happily thinking about how I spent today and hoping that it will last me for at least a year.

 

I woke up this morning at 5:00am just at the crack of dawn. After changing into my swimwear and coverup, I sat on one of the beach chairs in front of our villa and started to meditate. Since it is a weekday in October, we have our side of the island all to ourselves. I meditated for more than an hour without even realizing it! The sound of the waves and forest creatures were exactly the same as the one I use for my meditation at home. The difference was I could feel the cool morning breeze brushing through my face.

I then read a book while lying on the hammock until I fell asleep. When I woke up, it was time to have breakfast. I had two cups of delicious brewed coffee, fruits and fruit juices and sampled several selections of food in the buffet. I usually finish my meals in 5-10 minutes when in the city, even on weekends, but this time it took me an hour before I left my table. We even stayed on our table a long while after we finished eating.

We then went to the clubhouse to work a bit and check on things in the office. I was surprised to finish A LOT of work in only 2 hours! Relaxation and quiet time can really recharge the body as well as the mind.

After work, it was time to swim. First the beach where swam around in the extremely clean and pristine sea water. There was no one else around but us. This is what I am thankful for the most. In the world where we revolve, space is so limited and everyone is always busy running here and there. I am always grateful that once in a while we are able to find an isolated beach or spot where there is just the two of us. After an hour on the beach, we moved to the pool for another hour. I can now feel my sunburnt skin all over.  Ouch!

 

When we’re done swimming, it was time for lunch…again for another hour.

Immediately after lunch, we headed to our villa. R slept pretty much the whole afternoon while I alternately read magazines while getting crisp and tan on my beach chair and sipping strawberry cream hot tea (they were not even business magazines…just ordinary magazines!), relaxing flat on the beach chair staring at the sky and watching the clouds pass by and lying, sitting, lying again on the hammock while writing this post. 

I almost cancelled this trip because I did not think it would still be possible to go away for 5 full days with lots of deadlines to finish, the staff to supervise, etc. Just too many horror stories in my mind of what could go wrong when I am away. As of this writing, Friday is almost over and we managed to supervise everything over the phone from time to time. Sometimes all we need is to actually do it to know that it is possible. If not, we might succumb to our baseless fears and never do anything. Sure, shit may happen but there is also a big possibility that it won’t.

I am glad I went away on this trip with my R. God knows we both needed to get away and just spend a few days relaxing and doing what we love…him mostly sleeping with the wind on his face and me reading, writing and staring at the sea and listening to the sound of the waves.

Whatever happens and wherever life takes us, we will always have these memories and it will always put a smile on our faces.

It is now 4:30pm and I have 3 more hours before mealtime where we will have complimentary wine as their token to us for being frequent guests. I’m sure dinner will be amazing, as usual!!!

Have a great weekend!

My Footsteps... ANDA, A different side of Bohol

I am admittedly biased when it comes to Bohol. It is one of my favorite destinations in the Philippines because of the peace and relaxation that it promises, even in the busy beach of Alona. In our constant search of unspoiled and less popular places in the Archipelago, we came across information about Anda. 

The municipality is located at the eastern tip of Bohol and about 30-minute drive from Tagbilaran city. It is a quiet municipality, not yet too accustomed with tourists. The wide stretch of white sand beach is still mostly inhabited and enjoyed by local fishermen and their families.

From the main highway, we turned right to a 15-minute rough road before reaching Anda White Beach Resort, our retreat for 2 days. 

The room and the facilities

To our delight, though it is very far and hard to reach, the resort is equipped with most modern amenities. The rooms are spacious, clean and tastefully decorated too. It should be no surprise since the owner used to work in 5-star hotels deciding to open the resort.

The amenities are basically limited to a garden, restaurant, pool table, swimming pool and jacuzzi but for someone looking just to get away from the everyday hustle and bustle, these are more than enough. The added bonus was they allowed us to bring our drinks to the edge of the infinity pool so we can sip our cocktails and shake while watching the sun set. They also served our fries while we were in the jacuzzi! I felt so pampered! :)

There was nothing really special about their food but I could tell that the ingredients were fresh.

Grilled fish, Sinigang na hipon and Vegetable curry

Boneless bangus and Omelette for breakfast

The beach

It delivered as promised! The unspoiled powder fine and white beach was all ours. There were fishing boats passing by fro time to time from neighboring properties but other than that, there were no other tourists. The water is clear and the whole stretch is very clean. In the afternoon until the sunset, local kids went to play with their dogs on the beach next to ours. 

Different places have different appeal to people. It may be the party and convenience for some or great food and service for others. To me, a place is most charming when I get to stare at and enjoy its beauty without a single person passing through my view for hours at a time and when locals who have lived there for generations are still able to experience and play on their beaches. To some extent, I am attracted to isolation.

I do not know when I will come back but I sure hope that when I do, the sound of nothing else but the waves of the ocean will greet me on my arrival. :)

http://www.e-philippines.com.ph/