A Long Overdue Visit to Calaguas

I have been planning to visit this island for years since my mountaineer friends first told me about it. It is this isolated island several hours away from the mainland that is inhabited by few families with no electricity, scarce running water, no commercial lodging and bathrooms, no restaurants (nor carinderia or canteen at the time) and absolutely no network connection...just pure gift of nature. It is a place where even the elderly locals were afraid to go in fear of being engulfed in huge waves. This was at the time when typhoon after typhoon ravaged the Bicol region. To get there, one would have to hire a fishing boat and combat the massive waves. The description alone is enough to send a comfort traveler running fast to the other direction. But tell that to this mountaineer and adventure seeker and her backpack will be packed and ready even before you finish your story.

Many years after I first thought of going, at the peak of summer I find myself on a 9-hour roadtrip to Vinzons which would be the jumpoff point to Calaguas. The news was there are stores and establishments there now which makes it more (although not totally) convenient for guests. We left Manila at night at were in Vinzons port by 8:00am. We had to wait a while for our boat to fetch us. As we were waiting for our ride, I was amazed at the influx of tourists. Most of whom were obviously from Manila in various ages, with some even carrying their pet dogs. There were groups in 4 vans, jeepneys, even buses! Clearly, this was no longer the hidden paradise from the stories of before.

The port has a small fish market with several mini stores around where tourists can buy bottled water, foodstuff, toiletries and other supplies that they will need in the island.

Finally, our boat arrived. Now, getting into the boat is one thing and getting out of the port was another thing. It must have taken us 20 minutes to get out because it involved a careful maneuver of boats coming in and out of the very narrow passing. I remember how eager I was to hear the motor running just so I could finally feel some cool sea air brush though my flushed and sweaty face and body. 

I alternately listened to music and slept during the approximately 3-hour boat ride in surprisingly calm waters, asking myself "are we there yet?" everytime I wake up from my naps. Then, I saw a row of huge boats lined on the white sand beach and I knew we were there.

Calaguas group of Islands in Camarines Norte, Luzon, Philippines is comprised of minor islands/islets such as Maculabo and major islands such as Guintinua Island and Tinaga Island. 

Tinaga Island is where the recently famous Mahabang Buhangin is located.  It is under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Vinzons and Barangay Mangcawayan at approximately 14-15 nautical miles  from Paracale and 19-20 nautical miles from Vinzons. It first gained the attention of mountaineers who were looking for an untouched paradise but has remained unfamiliar to many until the past two years. In a short period of time, it had gained popularity especially to the younger crowd and families from Manila who are looking for an alternative to the more known beach sites.

 

Mahabang buhangin is comprised of about a 2-kilometer stretch of beach. Its crystal clear waters and powdery white sand are undeniably one of the best in the Philippines. It might be an injustice to the beautiful island that has its own unique beauty but speaking in a manner understandable to many, I'd say as of this writing, it is the only beach in the Philippines that I've been to that is comparable to the waters and the sand of Boracay. The backdrops of the island are rolling hills that are perfect for short treks.

  

The first thing I do as the boat arrives in any island wherever I go is look at the water as we approach the beach. The water turned from dark blue/dark green to aquamarine to a very transparent white. I got off the boat wearing my flip flops and a few steps away from the water, I took one flip flop off to feel the sand. The I knew it indeed was like Boracay's sand, only more cream-colored than white and a lot cleaner! 

These days, there are some mini stores (sari-sari stores) in the island, some huts, basic toilet and bath facilities but still no electricity and no mobile and internet network except for some parts way up in the hills.

It was scorching hot when we arrived at 11:00am on a summer day. There was hardly any shade from the few trees and all of the huts were already reserved. We bought halo halo from one of the stores for Php45.00 each. There was no special ingredient in it but it was very refreshing. Our delicious lunch was in one of the stores where we had steamed native veggies with sweet bagoong, grilled fish, sinantol, pininyahang pork and chicken and some fresh fruits.

My struggle with the heat came after lunch as the heat of the sun became much stronger. It is amazing though that many were swimming, playing volleyball and football and taking pictures at the beach at high-noon. I, on the other hand, opted to take sanctuary in this tiny tree and read my book. I dozed off for a few minutes but I was too uncomfortable with the humidity to fall in deep slumber. 

Reading under this small tree

Extremely bright and sunny day, where's my mojito?

A couple swimming at high-noon with an umbrella - only in the Philippines LOL!

4:30 in the afternoon and the sun was still high but we decided to go for a dip. I have not enjoyed swimming in sea water this much in a long time, or maybe ever. The water was so clean with absolutely none of the itchy feel that I get in other beaches.  

At around 5:30pm, we decided to take a shower to beat the long lines of people trying to shower before dinnertime. We paid Php10.00 per pale of fresh water. I thought this was a fair price considering the local's effort to carry the water from the well all the way to the bathrooms. Before sunrise, I was already refreshed, had read more pages in my book and was ready to watch the beautiful sunset.

Dinner was laing, grilled tuna, grilled pork belly and very sweet mango. By this time the breeze was cooler. There was non-stop lightning from afar but our skies were clear. Since I was still tired from the land travel I slept early, not minding the noise from different groups drinking and having fun. At 3:30am, I woke up. It was already quiet and all the lights were off. I decided to get my mat and lay on the beach to watch the stars. Oh man! There were millions of huge stars. I might have stared at them until just before sunrise.  

The next morning at 8:00am, it was time to pack our bags and be ready to leave.

Was the 9-hour drive and 3-hour boat trip worth it? I'd say it depends on who's traveling and what you are looking for in a destination. Certainly, this is one of the most beautiful beaches that I have ever been to.

A resort is fast building an establishment on one side of the beach and I will not be surprised if there will be more in the future. This can be a good sign - work for the locals, more comfort for tourists who are willing to pay - everybody happy right? I just hope that visitors and residents can be disciplined enough so that this pristine island can preserve its cleanliness and beauty. Ofcourse I can only hope.

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.

It is now raining hard outside which reminds me that my travel season is here. Time to leave an out-of-office reply in my email and pack my bags again for another adventure! :)