A Long Overdue Visit to Calaguas

I have been planning to visit this island for years since my mountaineer friends first told me about it. It is this isolated island several hours away from the mainland that is inhabited by few families with no electricity, scarce running water, no commercial lodging and bathrooms, no restaurants (nor carinderia or canteen at the time) and absolutely no network connection...just pure gift of nature. It is a place where even the elderly locals were afraid to go in fear of being engulfed in huge waves. This was at the time when typhoon after typhoon ravaged the Bicol region. To get there, one would have to hire a fishing boat and combat the massive waves. The description alone is enough to send a comfort traveler running fast to the other direction. But tell that to this mountaineer and adventure seeker and her backpack will be packed and ready even before you finish your story.

Many years after I first thought of going, at the peak of summer I find myself on a 9-hour roadtrip to Vinzons which would be the jumpoff point to Calaguas. The news was there are stores and establishments there now which makes it more (although not totally) convenient for guests. We left Manila at night at were in Vinzons port by 8:00am. We had to wait a while for our boat to fetch us. As we were waiting for our ride, I was amazed at the influx of tourists. Most of whom were obviously from Manila in various ages, with some even carrying their pet dogs. There were groups in 4 vans, jeepneys, even buses! Clearly, this was no longer the hidden paradise from the stories of before.

The port has a small fish market with several mini stores around where tourists can buy bottled water, foodstuff, toiletries and other supplies that they will need in the island.

Finally, our boat arrived. Now, getting into the boat is one thing and getting out of the port was another thing. It must have taken us 20 minutes to get out because it involved a careful maneuver of boats coming in and out of the very narrow passing. I remember how eager I was to hear the motor running just so I could finally feel some cool sea air brush though my flushed and sweaty face and body. 

I alternately listened to music and slept during the approximately 3-hour boat ride in surprisingly calm waters, asking myself "are we there yet?" everytime I wake up from my naps. Then, I saw a row of huge boats lined on the white sand beach and I knew we were there.

Calaguas group of Islands in Camarines Norte, Luzon, Philippines is comprised of minor islands/islets such as Maculabo and major islands such as Guintinua Island and Tinaga Island. 

Tinaga Island is where the recently famous Mahabang Buhangin is located.  It is under the jurisdiction of the municipality of Vinzons and Barangay Mangcawayan at approximately 14-15 nautical miles  from Paracale and 19-20 nautical miles from Vinzons. It first gained the attention of mountaineers who were looking for an untouched paradise but has remained unfamiliar to many until the past two years. In a short period of time, it had gained popularity especially to the younger crowd and families from Manila who are looking for an alternative to the more known beach sites.

 

Mahabang buhangin is comprised of about a 2-kilometer stretch of beach. Its crystal clear waters and powdery white sand are undeniably one of the best in the Philippines. It might be an injustice to the beautiful island that has its own unique beauty but speaking in a manner understandable to many, I'd say as of this writing, it is the only beach in the Philippines that I've been to that is comparable to the waters and the sand of Boracay. The backdrops of the island are rolling hills that are perfect for short treks.

  

The first thing I do as the boat arrives in any island wherever I go is look at the water as we approach the beach. The water turned from dark blue/dark green to aquamarine to a very transparent white. I got off the boat wearing my flip flops and a few steps away from the water, I took one flip flop off to feel the sand. The I knew it indeed was like Boracay's sand, only more cream-colored than white and a lot cleaner! 

These days, there are some mini stores (sari-sari stores) in the island, some huts, basic toilet and bath facilities but still no electricity and no mobile and internet network except for some parts way up in the hills.

It was scorching hot when we arrived at 11:00am on a summer day. There was hardly any shade from the few trees and all of the huts were already reserved. We bought halo halo from one of the stores for Php45.00 each. There was no special ingredient in it but it was very refreshing. Our delicious lunch was in one of the stores where we had steamed native veggies with sweet bagoong, grilled fish, sinantol, pininyahang pork and chicken and some fresh fruits.

My struggle with the heat came after lunch as the heat of the sun became much stronger. It is amazing though that many were swimming, playing volleyball and football and taking pictures at the beach at high-noon. I, on the other hand, opted to take sanctuary in this tiny tree and read my book. I dozed off for a few minutes but I was too uncomfortable with the humidity to fall in deep slumber. 

Reading under this small tree

Extremely bright and sunny day, where's my mojito?

A couple swimming at high-noon with an umbrella - only in the Philippines LOL!

4:30 in the afternoon and the sun was still high but we decided to go for a dip. I have not enjoyed swimming in sea water this much in a long time, or maybe ever. The water was so clean with absolutely none of the itchy feel that I get in other beaches.  

At around 5:30pm, we decided to take a shower to beat the long lines of people trying to shower before dinnertime. We paid Php10.00 per pale of fresh water. I thought this was a fair price considering the local's effort to carry the water from the well all the way to the bathrooms. Before sunrise, I was already refreshed, had read more pages in my book and was ready to watch the beautiful sunset.

Dinner was laing, grilled tuna, grilled pork belly and very sweet mango. By this time the breeze was cooler. There was non-stop lightning from afar but our skies were clear. Since I was still tired from the land travel I slept early, not minding the noise from different groups drinking and having fun. At 3:30am, I woke up. It was already quiet and all the lights were off. I decided to get my mat and lay on the beach to watch the stars. Oh man! There were millions of huge stars. I might have stared at them until just before sunrise.  

The next morning at 8:00am, it was time to pack our bags and be ready to leave.

Was the 9-hour drive and 3-hour boat trip worth it? I'd say it depends on who's traveling and what you are looking for in a destination. Certainly, this is one of the most beautiful beaches that I have ever been to.

A resort is fast building an establishment on one side of the beach and I will not be surprised if there will be more in the future. This can be a good sign - work for the locals, more comfort for tourists who are willing to pay - everybody happy right? I just hope that visitors and residents can be disciplined enough so that this pristine island can preserve its cleanliness and beauty. Ofcourse I can only hope.

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.

It is now raining hard outside which reminds me that my travel season is here. Time to leave an out-of-office reply in my email and pack my bags again for another adventure! :)

A Different Labor Day Experience - Baler, Aurora

Labor day usually means a few days in Boracay with my girlfriends. I don't remember why but in May 2013, we opted not to go and stay in the Metro. R has been planning to go to Baler for quite sometime but we haven't found the time to do it. So in Labor day, despite the possibility of getting stuck in traffic because of the holiday, we decided to give it a go.

It was a really hot day. We left home at 5 o'clock in the morning. There was no traffic at all, not in the metro and not in the highway. We stopped in a Shell station to fuel up and check the tires. Everything was looking good. But as we exited the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), another driver signaled that we have a flat tire. What? But we just had our tired checked at the station. We had to pull over at the side of the road and change the tire (30-minute setback).

Since we haven't had breakfast yet, went to a Burger King drive through for some food-to-go. By this time, Chopstick was already becoming uneasy. He was at the back seat and kept trying to jump in front. I think the heat plus his nonstop movements made him ill. Just before the Conception exit, he vomited so we had to pull over again. Russ cleaned up the car seat while I gave Chopstick iced water to drink and took him for a short walk so he could get some fresh air...yes, we went walking in NLEX at midday! (30-minute setback)

By the time we got back to the car, he was exhausted so he slept most of the time until late afternoon.

At around 3:00pm as we reached a town, Chosptick looked uneasy again so Russ took him out for a stroll so he could "do his business" and we could stretch our legs (30-minute setback). 

The drive to Baler was long, with winding roads and rough road with a picturesque view of lakes and the mountainside. Because we were worried about having no more spare tire, he had to drive slow. It must have taken us 2 hours longer than usual to reach our destination. As we continued on our road trip, it had started to get dark and cooler so we opened the windows. Chop poked his head out and enjoyed the ride.

After all that shenanigans, we finally reached our resort at 7:00pm. By that time it was already packed. We unloaded the car, checked into our room, took a bath and a quick nap. Even Chosptick had his nap. Afterwards, we headed down for dinner. I wanted to try other restaurants in the area but since it was late, we just decided on having our meal in the resort. We had stir fried broccoli, lechon kawali and sweet and sour fish fillet. The lechon kawali was a bit dry but tasted fine when eaten with the sauce. For hungry and tired people, everything would taste great.

The next day I woke up early.  I had my Filipino breakfast of tapsilog and coffee while enjoying the cool breeze and the sound of the waves before heading out for our morning walk. The sand in Sabang beach was grey and the water was still calm that morning. Chopstick enjoyed his walk as he played with other dogs. The sea water was cool and inviting. As the day went by, the waves became higher and the surfers started playing. I'd say Baler is a good place to start learning to surf because the waves are not overwhelming in some areas.

The beach is also perfect for families with kids because of the wide shoreline where they can play, with close adult supervision ofcourse.

For lunch we had...

Paco salad with tomato, onion and salted egg
This is something I always order whenever I see it on the menu because I rarely see it in Manila.

Grilled pork liempo
It was served with a side of paco salad. I thought the pork liempo was cooked too dry.

Fish fillet cooked with paco and in coconut cream
The dish had a generous serving of grilled fish underneath the fern. The sauce was a bit sour which cut the richness of the coconut cream.

Fried chicken wings

After lunch we went to the vulcanizing shop to have the tire checked. We then went on an easy trek to the Ditumabo falls.  There is already a pool a few steps from the parking area for those who do not want to walk far but the trek was worth it.

It was a relaxing trek involving some shallow river crossing which can be slippery during rainy days but is perfect for sunny days.

 

Chopstick was spooked when he saw a black carabao because he did not know what it was so Russ had to carry him

Stopping for a drink

We had a refreshing swim on the pool with cool water from the falls. Chopstick was not too happy about it though.

It was almost sunset when we drove back to our resort. Tired from his adventure, Chopstick slept by my side and snored the moment we entered the car.The view along the highway, with local kids swimming and adults going about their day was spectacular.

At sunset we stopped by Ermita hill. This is a high-point where the six families of baler took refuge to survive the tsunami that hit in 1735. These families were the Angara (now a known political clan in the Philippines), Bijasa, Bitong, Carrasco, Lumasac, and Poblete families. 

It offers a view of the neighboring towns and the calm seas with boats passing by.

A trip at a surf beach would not be complete without enjoying bottles of beer with my favorite travel partner.

Chopstick was so exhausted that he did not even mind us playing wit him as he slept

Aside from Museo de Baler, there are many sights to see for those who want a taste of the town's history such as the Baler Catholic Church, the Aurora Quezon Marker, Quezon Memorial Park and many others. But our limited time did not allow us to visit any of them. Maybe next time.

My driver and my bodyguard

The best part of the trip for me was buying gorgeous bright-colored orchids by the roadside at only Php80.00 each!